Dahlia Colorful Decorative Flowers
DAHLIA
Many people will remember dahlias as long tubers that were kept in the cellar in a bed of peat dust waiting for spring. They were then planted out to provide colorful flowers in late summer. Fortunately, there are still devotees of this romantic way of enjoying dahlias, but there is no need for anyone to do without them if they no longer have a cellar or anywhere else in the house where it is cool enough to prevent the tubers from drying out. The plants may also be grown from seeds or cuttings and commercial growers produce huge quantities of plants for flower-beds and containers by these methods. Dahlia plants grown from seed will have developed some tubers by the end of the season, and this also applies to some dahlias grown from cuttings. Some of the specialist firms, however, strike the cuttings in such a way that the plants will produce hardly any viable tubers, thus ensuring that you will be obliged to buy more dahlias next year.
Low-growing dahlias for pots and flowerbeds are the principal kinds grown from seed or cuttings. Their ancestors include Dahlia merckii from the warm regions of Mexico. It never freezes there, so the plants - and this applies to all dahlias - do not tolerate a single degree of frost. The very first autumn night frost causes the leaves and stems to turn black and die off immediately. It will then be time to remove the tubers of all tuberous plants from the soil. They will be protected briefly by the cushioning warmth of the soil, but will not tolerate any further frost.
None of this is of any concern to us in the case of dahlias grown as annuals: the plants turn mushy in autumn, safe in the knowledge that there will be fresh plants in spring. Do not plant them out-of-doors in a flower-bed until the risk of a night frost has been reduced to a minimum, say, by the end of May. You may chance it a little earlier if they are in containers, in which case you can always bring them indoors again if there is any threat of a frost. It is quite possible to sow dahlias yourself, and packets of seed are on sale at most garden centers. It is best to sow them indoors at room temperature in March. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of sand or fine grit so that they make proper contact with the soil and do not dry up. The seedlings should be pricked out early on to allow their roots to develop freely. You should give them some space as soon as the second pair of leaves has developed. The pricked-out seedlings should be in a light position - for instance, on a windowsill - but it should be airy (to prevent mildew) and not too warm, in order to prevent etiolation. A greenhouse or frame at a temperature of 50-59 °F is ideal, as it will provide the young dahlias with the large amount of light that they need. Opening the windows increasingly wide in May will make it easy to harden them off. The soil should never be allowed to dry out. Commercial growers sow by the end of January to enable them to market flowering plants by mid-May. If you sow in March, the plants may be in flower by the end of June. The number of dahlia varieties is huge and there are associations of devotees of this group of plants, who swop plants and news. Commercial cultivation of seeds, seedlings, and cuttings is concentrated mainly on the low-growing varieties for mass-planting in flower-beds and containers.
Dahlia ‘Bambi Red-Orange’ has semi-double flowers in a subdued shade of orange red. Commercial growers are particularly pleased with the compact growth of the plants in the Bambi Series, as they need relatively little cultivation space for transporting them. Their spherical growth also makes the 12-in tall plants suitable for mass-planting in flowerbeds; if grown in containers, they just look boring. Dahlias belonging to this series are propagated by cuttings. The series includes yellow-flowered and purple-flowered plants, as well Dahlia ‘Bambi White’ (with double flowers), and Dahlia ‘Bambi Light Pink’ (pink and white, semi-double, less formal flowers).
Dahlia ‘Dahlietta Emily’ belongs to the old Dahlietta Series, with flowers that are strikingly large for small bedding plants. They are propagated by cuttings. The series is available in many colors, including wine red, orange, yellow, and white. ‘Emily’ has pale pink flowers; and those of Dahlia ‘Dahlietta Linda’ are apricot-colored. Dahlia ‘Ama-zone’ is also included in the Dahlstar Series, but differs so much from it that it was proposed as a new introduction, outside the series, for 1999. The flowers of this 12 in tall plant are semi-double. The advantage is that it is possible to admire the yellow center surrounded by a crimson ring which, in turn, has a pale pink outer ring round it. This plant, too, is propagated by cuttings.
The genuine Dahlstar Series includes Dahlia ‘Dahlstar Maroon,’ with deep wine-red flowers; Dahlia ‘Dahlstar Scarlet,’ with orange-red and orange flowers; and Dahlia ‘Dahlstar White,’ which features a pretty white center amidst the white petals. White-flowered varieties are often less sturdy, but that is definitely not so in the case of ‘Dahlstar White.’ Contrary to what the name Dahlia ‘Dalina Light Violet’ suggests, the plant’s flowers are distinctly pink. It is propagated by cuttings.
If ever there was a flower that knew the meaning of variety, it is the Dahlia. While it’s colors are limited to the warm ranges of red, orange, yellow, pink and white, it’s flowers come in a dizzying array of shapes and sizes. Dahlias are grouped into 6 size categories:
- Giant - more than 10 inches in diameter
- Large - 8-10 inches in diameter
- Medium - 6-8 inches in diameter
- Small - 4-6 inches in diameter
- Miniature - 2-4 inches in diameter
- Mignon - Less than 2 inches in diameter
On top of that, they are grouped into 11 bloom categories such as Decorative, Cactus, Fimbriated, Ball, Waterlily, Anemone, Collarette, Orchid, Peony, Single and Novelty.
Each variation of the dahlia petal is a beauty. Their petals can be spiky, wispy, round thin or a half dozen other variations. Even the color ranges from one solid color to a painted mixture of two or three colors.
Dahlias like well, drain, humus rich soil. They also like full light. While dahlias are not cold hardy, they do benefit from being grown in a cooler climate with plenty of rain fall.
Dahlias bloom from mid summer all the way up to frost. Many times their displayed will become more spectacular as the weather cools. Dahlias produce a better display if they are properly deadheaded and pinched.
Dahlias are commonly grown as an annual but they can be grown as a perennial if their tubers are dug up shortly after the first frost. To dig up a dahlia properly, simply dig the frost blackened plant out of the ground. Brush (not wash) as much soil off as possible and then cut the stems back to about 6 inches. Set them out in a cool dry place to dry for a day or two. Basements or garages are ideal for this. After they have dried out a bit, dust them with a bit of fungicide and pack them away. Packing them in vermiculite or sand will help to ensure that the tuber will not be affected by fungal infestations.
Dahlias are easily propagated by division. Simply replant the tubers and wait until the growth reaches between a half inch to a full inch. Dig the plant back up and divide the clump into a few pieces. Each new clump needs to have a shoot on it.
If you haven’t grown dahlias before, then this summer I would highly recommend that you give them a try. The variety and vividness of the dahlia flower is difficult to find in any other flower.
